Heating water for bathing or other purposes can lead to a big breach in your electricity bill. At the same time, with the depletion of fossil fuels, there is a global transition of DIY craftsmen to alternative energy sources. This is why more and more households are investing in solar heaters to save energy.
But why buy when you can build a free heat generator yourself? By following the instructions shown in this DIY video, you will have your own solar thermal heater for your water heating needs. Its peculiarity is that this unit works, for obvious reasons, only in the daytime. But aren't there any ideas on how to make a heat accumulator for home? All this can be found in other masters or invented by yourself. However, let's not get distracted, but let's see how the idea stated in the title of the article is implemented.
What is the essence of the idea of a free source of thermal energy
Copper pipe is used because of its excellent heat transfer properties. Let's warm up a little!
You will see a significant reduction in your electricity bill when you use this DIY copper pipe solar water heater. Many thanks to the creator of the video "desertsun02".
The video demonstrates how the master created an ingenious heat exchanger
Copper tube water heater collects heat
The craftsmen decided to assemble a solar collector for water heating with their own hands. There is an old one with a garden hose. It heats well, but I would like it to be more efficient. Therefore, we bought blanks, copper will be used.
Main parts of the collector
There will be several sections. Tees, pipes, corners are used as material. From tools pipe cutter, tape measure, knife. Gas, silver-containing solder. A tape measure is used for cutting accuracy.
The wall thickness of the copper tube is 1 mm. Tee diameter 15 mm. Hose connectors. Measure with a tape measure, make notches with a knife. The knife leaves a clear line, unlike the marker; when the pipe cutter cuts, the edge bends slightly. In theory, it should be remade, as in water boilers. In our case, this is not necessary, there is no pressure. The device works by gravity only due to the difference in water temperatures. Warm goes up, cold goes down. This ensures circulation and heating of the barrel.
This is what the battery looks like.
Continued on video from 5 minutes
Comments below the video.
Max Xam From a copper tube it is wise to solder a copper strip to each tube and paint it with matte black paint (ideal for car calipers); and the glass did not burst inside too. In such a collector, in clear weather in winter -14, water boils. The cost is growing, but everything is cheaper than in the store. The vacuum does not allow the glass to warm up - which allows you to avoid the ice crust on the glass during snowfall in winter, just brushed it off with a broom and that's it. Plus in winter the sun is low above the ground, so my collectors are located 60-70 degrees and below the tank in height - so as not to use a pump, but to drive heated water by diffusion.
Vadim Yatsyna I see flaws. 1) There is practically no water circulation. Spontaneous circulation will occur if the heating circuit is placed below the tank, and the inlet and outlet of the circuit must have a difference in height 2) There is no orientation of the circuit to the Sun, - set it at an angle equal to the latitude of the area, at the same time there will be a difference in the installation height of the nozzles 3) Back side of the circuit not insulated - there are losses. The storage tank, nozzles and hoses are not insulated, the system is ineffective due to huge heat losses. I think I have the right to be smart, since I also have a solar collector. There are several videos on it on my channel.
Instructions for thrifty owners: how to make a heating radiator with your own hands?
Homemade radiators for the heating system can significantly reduce the cost of repairs. More often, self-made registers are used for greenhouses, utility rooms, garages, workshops.
Some use homemade (custom) radiators for an effect in the interior.
Hand-made radiators are much cheaper than even used ones. The big advantage of homemade batteries is the ability to freely "play" with the forms, it is easy to fit the dimensions into the calculated place.
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A properly made battery is easy to use, durable, does not leak, has a neat appearance. To cope with its construction, you need to go a series of stages.
Preparation of tools: photo
To make a radiator, you will need the following skills and tools for:
- Metal compounds. To prevent the battery from leaking, the wall material is securely soldered to each other. This can be done with soldering irons, a welding machine, and a gas torch. Of course, the tools also require the skill of welding - the seams should be beautiful, without slag inclusions and shells.
Photo 1. Soldering iron ZD-200V, power 40W, power supply - 220 V,. - Measurements and markings... The work will require rulers, squares, tape measure, magnets. For mounting or assembling heavy volumetric batteries on site, you will need a hydraulic level, a bubble level, a laser level.
- Locksmith processing... Work skills and the availability of an angle grinder, hammer, chisel, file and other locksmith tools and devices.
Photo 2. Angle grinder model GWS 660, power consumption 670 W,. - Painting supplies and tools. A brush, spray, primer, paint, degreaser, thinner will help protect against corrosion and give a fresh look to the product.
Photo 3. Universal degreaser, container volume - 5 liters, shelf life 36 months,.
A well-equipped workshop will simplify the task and significantly speed up the work, but if some tools are not enough, they can be rented or borrowed from friends.
Calculation of the dimensions of the heating battery
the characteristic of a radiator is the ability to transfer heat to the surrounding space. It depends on the property the walls of the battery, the area of the parts, the volume of the coolant and the speed of its circulation.
Battery design begins with drawing up a technical assignment: required dimensions, heat exchange capacity. Radiator design consists of the following steps:
- Calculation of the heat loss of the room. The higher and larger the room, the larger the contact area of the radiator with the environment. Each room is unique, as it has its own characteristics of the thermal conductivity of the walls, the quality of glazing, ventilation. There are reference books that allow you to calculate heat loss, but there are averaged formulas - the heat loss of floors, walls, windows is added, multiplied by correction factor of 20% - the required power of the radiators is ready.
- From room shape the number, size and location of batteries depends. One battery will not be able to warm up a narrow long room, and they put additional ones.
Near the entrances from the street and under the windows, it is worthwhile to provide heating elements: getting into the room, cold air is "cut off" by a stream of warm air.
- Define possible pressure and temperature in the system... The design of the battery depends on these parameters - at high pressure, the threaded joints should be as small as possible.
- The power of the radiator is affected the number of registers and the distance between them... If the main type of heat transfer is radiant, there should be no less than 50 mm. Otherwise, they will warm one another.
A man receives hot water from a thermosiphon and a wood-burning stove
The cold winter season increases the demand for hot water.Instead of installing an expensive water heater in your home, it is more economical to use a wood-burning stove to heat your water. This way, you don't have to charge huge electricity bills just to keep your water warm.
In this DY video, you will learn a simple, safe and effective way to use a stove to heat the water in your home. This method uses the laws of convection in a thermosyphon, so all you have to do is repeat the idea stated in the article.
Heated water can be expensive, especially if you use a purchased heater. If you want to reduce your heating costs, you can use a wood-burning stove. The video below will show you how to do this. Many thanks to the YouTube host "convectioncoil.com".
In general, after the repair, an extra floor point for connecting the battery was formed. Conventional radiators did not follow the furniture layout. The idea came to make a decorative battery ala "grill grate" from a copper tube. The pipe was found quickly. Rigid quality copper 15X1mm, Germany. The guys from Romstal on the Levoberezhnaya metro station helped to select fittings and consumables. By the way, very patient professionals - many thanks to them for that.
The story is this: 1. The size of the layout was made for a niche. 2. Connectors were cut and sawn into tees. 3. Everywhere, all chamfers of cuts inside-outside are processed. 4. Assembly of the structure and rigid fixation in the tree. 5. Soldering. 6. Pressure check 7. Roughing. 8. Pilot installation.
9. Continuation of rough cleaning. 10. Sandblast. 11. Varnishing. 12. Regular installation. 13. Admiring a bunch of wasted time and effort.
Shl. There are still 20 meters of pipe left. Sliced at 2m. There is a gas burner, a hair dryer with nozzles, a good expensive eco-friendly flux paste with solder and the same solder. I will help to make an "exclusive" beautiful outdoor copper water supply system.
This article is about homemade heating devices. Sometimes they do not shine with beauty; however, the ability to provide heat to a garage or workshop with your own hands at minimal cost will certainly attract many of our readers. We will get acquainted with several structures of varying complexity, made from recyclable materials, old pipes and other extremely affordable materials.
Diy copper tube radiator
From my own experience, I can say that choosing a ready-made radiator for an NWO is not an easy task.
I live in Lithuania, for the last ten years the business of transferring used foreign cars to Russia was in full swing, literally everything that was able to leave the territory of the car market on its own was sold.
If a car (the language did not turn to call a pile of scrap metal as a vehicle) ended up in a dumpster (yes, yes, this is how we called the place of the last rest of the car), it was immediately torn apart into a thousand parts.
The most decent ones mysteriously crawled around their relatives and friends, and if auto-ovens were already on sale, they did not leak only due to a thick layer of dirt and scale.
As a result, after trying to wash and clean the stove with all its appearance, it shows that it does not want to work normally, it prefers to pass water not through the fittings, but directly onto the floor through a bunch of small (and not so) holes. And in general, her head hurts today.
Yes, and the dimensions of the old stoves are just ATAS, and on newer machines the stove is a miracle of aluminum and plastic (you want a copper one), a quiet slow fan cannot blow both of them.
Regular forays into refrigerator and air conditioner repair shops have also failed. At best, there were aluminum radiators, at worst - steel.
Due to the above reasons, a number of robbery raids were carried out at the following addresses: • Plumbing store - one meter of a copper tube with an outer diameter of 12 mm and eight copper elbows for this tube were removed. 3 mm
• An electrical goods store, the result is 5 meters of copper wire 2.5-3 mm (this size determines the distance between the plates)
Then the lyrics end, the prose of life begins.I warn you right away, for a number of operations it is desirable (but not required) to enter the simplest metalworking workshop (you need a guillotine for cutting metal and a drilling machine).
I continue. Cut the foil into pieces of 20 x 150 mm (I cut 60 pieces, with a margin). Cut out two pieces of the same dimensions from aluminum with a thickness of 4-5 mm and put all the plates in a bag so that these thick plates turn out to be the top and bottom. We tighten the entire package with small vise. We punch four holes, retreating from the narrow edge 18.75 - 37.5 - 37.5 - 37.5 mm, respectively, along the central axis.
Everyone, sat down, rested, you can smoke, I do not recommend beer.
We take a packet of plates, beer (which came in handy) and go to the nearest drilling machine, find a man next to him in the most oiled overalls, put a beer in a prominent place and ask the man to "drill only 4 holes" with a diameter of 13 mm.
Attention, this is not a typo, it is 13. Let me explain. The tube with a diameter of less than 15 mm is supplied in rolls, it cannot be perfectly straightened. As a result, the distance between the axes of the tubes “floats”, it will not work to fit the ribs with 12 mm holes on the tubes, the plates “lead”.
Thick plates around the edges of the bag prevent the bag from creeping and deforming. And the last thing. Despite the fact that we are drilling a relatively thick piece, I recommend using a drill sharpened for drilling in sheet metal, a simple drill, even a very sharp one, does not fit, the bag swells, the drill takes away. Drill lubrication is required.
We straighten the copper tube and cut off two pieces of 20 cm each and two pieces of 16. Take the copper wire in our hands and, using the tube as a mandrel, wind a spiral on the tube (internal diameter 12 mm), remove the spiral, cut into rings. As a result, we get a bunch of copper rings. We align each ring by bringing together the ends of the cuts.
There is a little trick in the slicing. It is necessary to cut off the ring from the spiral so that a gap remains and the ring itself could be compressed, reduced in diameter. As a result, the ring should fit on the tube in tension. Then we boil this whole household in a solution of citric acid (at the same time we will clean our wife and the kettle from scale, and there will be something to water the roses for the bitchy neighbor. While everything is boiling, you can drink some coffee.
Flashlights. The curtain. Maestro - MARSH.
We assemble a radiator from the parts (see figure), coat the soldering points with flux, warm it up with an industrial hair dryer and solder it. Rings made of wire, on the one hand, fix the distance between the plates, and on the other, the solder poured under them provides excellent thermal contact between the tubes and the plates.
At the level of world standards, so to speak. I used active flux for aluminum soldering. One important detail. I do not recommend smearing the entire structure with flux at once - the whole part heats up, the soldering process is long, and while you are soldering one part, the flux in other places “smoothly transforms, smoothly transforms.
”In hard-to-remove carbon deposits.
Radiators for hot water heating
First, we examine radiators designed to operate in central and autonomous heating circuits.
Register
The simplest and most affordable home-made heating radiators are made of pipes of large (100 - 250 mm) diameter, muffled at the ends and connected by jumpers. These devices - the so-called registers - have a large internal volume and, accordingly, significant thermal inertia, which makes them an ideal solution for systems with solid fuel boilers.
Hint: A solid fuel boiler needs to be fired up every few hours. The greater the inertia of the heating system and, in particular, heating devices, the less the heated room will cool down between kindling.
How to make the simplest horizontal register?
- Pipes are cut in lengths of 1.5 - 4 meters (depending on the estimated length of the register).
- Holes for lintels are drilled or burned with a gas torch in them.... An important point: the configuration of the jumpers should create a closed loop inside the device, excluding stagnation of the coolant in dead-end areas.
- Pipes are connected with jumpers - pipes of size DU20 - DU32.
- Parallel to the lintels, pipe sections of the same length are welded, but already welded to the blind walls... They will add rigidity to the structure.
- The ends are muffled by bottoms cut from steel sheet 4 - 5 mm thick.
- Nipples are welded into the lower and upper sections, which will further connect the register with the eyeliner.
In most cases, an ordinary round water and gas pipe is used as register sections. It is attractive for its low price per running meter and maximum tensile strength with a minimum wall thickness, which is ensured by a circular cross-section.
Self-made register device.
However, sometimes you can find home-made heating radiators from a profile pipe - square or rectangular. Its advantages are the relative compactness of the register and a slightly larger surface area with the same cross-sectional area.
Important: at a constant temperature of the heater, its heat transfer linearly depends on the surface area on which heat exchange with air takes place.
Convector
The simplest convector is a pipe coil with plates pressed onto it, increasing the notorious heat exchange surface. The most readily available material is steel. Houses - new buildings often act as sources of ready-made convectors for garage owners: the owners of apartments in them massively change the heating devices installed by builders for more attractive outwardly and with high heat transfer sectional radiators.
Residents of new buildings often remember the creators of this masterpiece with a quiet, kind word.
However, steel has a serious drawback - low thermal conductivity. In order not to be unfounded, we give the values of thermal conductivity for three metals, which are most often used in the manufacture of heating devices.
| 30.06.2014, 23:20 | #1 |
teplomex.ru
Elements of the heating system require special care, each element should be treated very carefully. The installation of the pipeline is a responsible business, therefore, it must be done with detailed accuracy. In addition, the piping is the most important part of the heating system. When installing it, it is imperative to observe safety precautions.
Plan everything carefully before starting the installation. First, select the necessary tools and parts. For the installation of the pipeline, it is very important to use accurate measurements, therefore, further calculations must be made.
Measure the diameter of the original, or use the drawing version for this purpose. For installation, take standard copper pipes, which are used in construction, their diameter should be 12-18 mm.
The properties of copper pipes are bactericidal and resistance to sudden changes in temperature and pressure, and to corrosion. The peculiarity of copper pipes is that ultraviolet radiation does not penetrate through them, therefore they have a low thermal coefficient.
Copper pipe fittings
To install the pipeline, you will need the following materials:
- bends, - transition tee (15x12x15), - ordinary tee (18 mm each on all sides), - collet connection (collapsible, 10 mm), - 2 couplings, transitions and water sockets with ears (about 15 mm)
The angle of the bends must be 90 °, the top must be 18 mm and the bottom must be 15 mm. You will need couplings - reduction (about 18 mm) and connecting (15-18 mm), as well as transitions - from threads to pipes and from pipes to threads.
For efficient operation, it is necessary to ensure a reliable shutdown of the heating system for a long time. Make sure it is actually disabled to avoid unpleasant situations.Before you start soldering copper pipes with your own hands, make grooves in the right places, that is, openings.
Now you can start the process of soldering pipe connections to water sockets. Remove the switch cabinet of the metal-plastic system from the wall, later you can replace it with a copper one - it is more resistant to environmental influences.
When installing copper heating pipes, it is advisable to change all the parts, since there is a possibility that during the construction process the main devices could malfunction, but sometimes it happens that the distributor simply does not fit the installed pipes.
A special technology is used to make the pipes bend. Soft pipes will be easy to bend, but with hard ones it is a little more difficult: they must first be warmed up in the place in which you plan to bend, after which the pipes must be bent and immediately cooled quickly.
Folds are made to reduce waste. The smooth fold ensures less water resistance and therefore less chance of contamination.
Next, pipes and fittings are soldered - this is a fairly important part of the main process. The pipe is heated in the right place, after which it is soldered with a burner to another pipe, which is also preheated. The pipe joints fit tightly. The weld boundary must be clear throughout the alloy.
Brazing copper pipes
When all the pipes are already soldered, they are laid in the previously prepared grooves. In order to avoid problems with grinding the pipe walls during heat treatment to deform and reduce heat transfer, they must be isolated from other materials. Be careful when installing radiator mounting pipes on the wall.
Insulation is carried out with tape or foam, the layer of insulating material should be approximately 2 mm thick. A muffler must be screwed into the water outlet before the final assembly of the system.
It remains to attach the radiators, after which they must be connected to the general system. It is forbidden to use aluminum radiators for a copper heating system, because as a result of such an installation, a system failure will occur. But if you used non-bimetallic and cast iron heating radiators, then you can choose a suitable adapter, and then there will be no threat.
Although copper pipes were used in the heating system, corrosion will always find loopholes. To reduce the risk of corrosion, connect the editor to a steel tube. When a manual regulator and other devices are attached to the editor, re-insulate the outlet pipes.
In the same way, you can install pipes in the bathroom, garage and other rooms that have individual heating. When installing the pipeline in the bathroom, first block the access of water, then change the ventilation, install filters and adapters. Watching the video. Further, the entire structure is soldered, the separating and connecting pipes are fixed upward and soldered to the lower pipes. In the garage, pipes are installed in the same way, only more waste pipes and filters will be needed so that heating and water supply are more reliable.
Autonomous heaters
What if there is no central heating and gas in the garage, and the frequency of your visits to the premises does not allow organizing a scheme with a solid fuel boiler?
In this case, it would be quite logical to use electricity for heating.
Oil radiator
The simplest home-made oil cooler is a welded register already familiar to us with several modifications.
- There are no welds for connecting to the liners.
- The register is usually made portable, which implies the presence of legs.
- There are jumpers between sections on both sides. Their diameter is made slightly larger than when assembling a register for water heating.The instruction is due to the fact that natural convection implies a minimum hydraulic head, and if so, hydraulic resistance should also be minimal.
- Heating elements or several parallel connected heating elements are installed at the end of the lower section.
- Oil acts as a heat carrier. Ideally - transformer, but even working out is suitable.
- The register is supplied with a small open expansion tank. As an option, the oil is not added a little to the top of the register, and the weld on its upper section is equipped with an automatic air vent.
Advantages and disadvantages of devices
Homemade metal or aluminum appliances differ from conventional radiators in their own dimensions. They consist of some pipes with a diameter exceeding 32 mm. To organize the circulation of the coolant, the pipes are connected with each other by branch pipes.
What is the reason for the popularity of these heat supply devices? First of all, the prospect of independent production. You can make bimetallic devices, metal or aluminum pipes.
Before connecting the heating registers, you should carefully study all their sides.
Benefits:
- Long service life. For metal and aluminum modifications, it can be up to 25 years. In this case, the possibility of breakage will be the smallest.
- Significant heat dissipation. This is due to the fact that the power of the devices exceeds this parameter for traditional radiators and batteries. It is associated with the large size of the coolant.
- Simple installation and operation. Since the devices can be correctly identified by anyone who is at least a little familiar with the instructions for organizing heat supply, they can be used in buildings of all types. But most often they can be found in the heating system of industrial, administrative and commercial premises.
Read also: What is technological connection to power grids
But apart from that, it is necessary to take into account the possible disadvantagesthat a register made of a metal smooth pipe can have:
- Large size of the coolant. This leads to its rapid cooling.
- The smallest indicator of air convection. Reduces the efficiency of the heat supply.
- Unattractive appearance. Most often this applies to self-made systems.
A correctly calculated heat transfer from heating directly depends on the design of the device. Currently, a number of types of these heat supply devices are used, differing not only in the used material of production, but also in their appearance.
