ARISTON water heater error code table
| error code | error reason | Try to reset by turning off the water heater from the mains for 5-10 seconds. If the problem persists, a repair is required at a service center. |
| E01 | Error in the circuits of the control unit, failure of the system board. | It is necessary to do a reset by turning off the water heater from the network for 5-10 seconds. If the problem persists, repair in a workshop is required. |
| E10 | Temperature sensor defective. A possible cause is an open or short circuit in the wires to the sensor, the sensor itself is faulty. | Check the wiring, the presence of condensation on the system board, dry the control board if necessary. If the temperature sensor itself is faulty, replace it in a workshop. |
| E11 | Critically high water temperature, overheating. Temperature exceeds 105C ° | Malfunction in the heating element commutation circuits. The temperature has exceeded the critical one. It is impossible to turn off the water heater, descale the heating elements and in the tank, then turn it on and check the operation, if the problem is not eliminated, repair is needed in a workshop. |
| E12 | Exceeding the heating temperature by 12C ° above the set | The error and remedy are the same as E11 |
| E14 | Low water heating rate | The heating element is faulty, possibly a low supply voltage. Check the voltage in the power supply, replace the heating element. |
| E15 | The outlet tank of the water heater indicates a complete lack of water | Try to reset by turning off the water heater from the mains for 5-10 seconds. Fill the tank with water. Check the operation of the safety valve, it may be out of order. Make sure you have a warm water intake pipe. It is necessary to descale the heating elements and in the tank, then turn on and check the operation |
| E25 | The outlet tank of the water heater indicates a lack of water | Switch off the appliance and fill it with water. Check the operation of the safety valve, it is possible that it needs to be replaced. Make sure there is a water intake tube located in the outlet tank. Thoroughly clean the heating component from any deposits and salt deposits that can affect its operation. Start the water heater again with the ON button. |
ARISTON water heater error codes
How to reset an error - this question is often asked
To reset the error on the Ariston water heater, it is enough to turn off the power (unplug the plug or turn off the power switch) of the boiler for 30 seconds, after turning on the error should disappear, if the error reappears after resetting, this is a clear sign of a malfunction, see the table of error codes below in the text.
Typical malfunctions of Ariston heaters
Why doesn't the technique work? The answer to the question will help you find the diagnosis or the boiler itself. Modern models are equipped with control boards that regulate the operation of all nodes in the system. When a breakdown occurs, a malfunction code is displayed. If there is no display, then the error is indicated by the indicators (blinking).
Decoding of symbols will help to solve problems with the operation of the heater.
Error codes for boilers "Ariston": table
| Malfunction code | What does | How to repair |
| E01 | There is a problem with the control board. | To eliminate a system error, turn the column on and off for 10 minutes. If the error reappears, inspect the board. Condensation may have formed on it. |
| E10 | Temperature sensor problem. | Check the integrity of the wiring, the tightness of the contacts. Test the sensor with a multimeter. In the event of a breakdown, a replacement is performed. |
| E11 | The message about exceeding the normal temperature (more than 105 degrees). The reasons:
| DIY repair:
|
| E12 | The sensors indicate that the water temperature is 12 degrees higher than it should be. | See code E11. |
| E13 | Touch differential error. The difference in readings between the temperature sensors is more than 50 ° С. | Diagnostics and installation of new sensors. |
| E14 | Error E14 reports: water heats up very slowly. | Make sure the voltage is normal. Descale the heating element. |
| E15 | The system reports that there is no water in the tank. | Check the presence of water in the water supply, the condition of the safety valve. Replace the defective part. |
Since the boiler is simultaneously connected to electricity and water communications, problems can also affect the network or the safety valve and hoses.
Let's analyze the main breakdowns of the Ariston heater:
- The tank is leaking.
- The device does not turn on.
- No water heating.
Symptoms of a malfunction may include:
- Prolonged heating.
- Noise during operation.
- Water with an unpleasant odor and cloudy color.
- Quick activation and deactivation of the boiler.
Read below for what to do and how to fix it.
Schematic diagram of the Ariston water heater
Indication of error codes on the Ariston water heater
Is the heating element of a storage water heater suitable for use?
The insulation resistance between ground (usually the middle lead) and any contact is 24 MΩ. The coil resistance of the storage water heater is determined based on the power. The passport of the device is taken, the desired parameter is selected in the technical characteristics section, Ohm's law will allow you to calculate the desired value. Power is related to voltage, resistance by the following expression:
P = U 2 / R, the expression will serve the purpose of calculating the resistance R.
For every kilowatt, there are 13.5 ohms. The power of the water heater is 2 kW, the coil resistance is 27 Ohm. The outer copper tube rings with the ground. Another factor: if the heating element looks good, check if the shell is broken. It is easier to do, taking salt water, immerse the heating element so that the contacts do not get wet, measure the resistance between the solution, any end of the spiral. Will come out 24 megohms (on the screen of a cheap tester you will see "infinity").
The fact means that there is a short circuit to the storage water heater case, the riser will not appear after switching on. Water conducts a current, which means there is a small chance of potential arrival at the bathroom faucet, will be waiting for the victim. The devices of the bathroom, toilet room are protected by a differential protection device. At the slightest leakage current, it will cut the circuit. The principle of operation is simple: the difference between the input and output currents is measured. It will be useful to put a fuse that protects the coil from combustion. Done if the differential protection device lacks the appropriate slots. In the event of a short circuit of the coil, the protector may burn out from the leak!
Often, self-repair of Ariston water heaters is faced with the need to clean the tank. Some even do it with a grinder ... It's incredible. No hard objects inside! Just a cloth, hands, soap. Put the water heater upside down at night, pour citric acid solution (5 liters) through the hot water pipe. Muffle the inlet (not the outlet through which the solution was poured), put the water heater off. Please note: the rubber pad is not fitted for the above reason. Place the storage water heater where the leakage of a small amount of liquid will not cause irreparable harm.
Please note: the warranty repair of Ariston water heaters does not cover damage to the tank by hydraulic, mechanical shock. The thickness of the steel is low, do not neglect the simplest installation rules. Non-return & bypass valve, apartment water hammer damper in the first place.The magnesium anode must be changed without fail.
The fact is that the copper heating element of the storage water heater creates a galvanic pair with steel, and this will lead to damage to the tank. The situation will worsen if there is a small scratch. In this case, the area of the donor is much smaller than the acceptor, so corrosion will develop shock-fast. But to fix the tank, you will have to cut off the top, or remove the thermal insulation, cook outside. Believe me, in both cases, the owner will be happy to buy a new storage water heater Ariston, unless the product costs more than 10,000 rubles.
A storage water heater is an indispensable addition for lovers of comfortable bath procedures. During the night, 2 kW can easily heat 100-200 liters of water to a temperature of 70-80 degrees Celsius. In the morning, the couple will fill 2 baths by mixing hot and cold jets.
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Question - The answer to the malfunction of the Ariston water heaters
| Recently we moved to a country house, the house has an electric water heater Ariston ABS PLT ECO 80V Slim. The house has a water supply system, water is supplied from a well through an automation unit, the pressure in the water supply system is 3.5 bar. Cold water flows throughout the house perfectly (the house is 2 storey). However, if you open a tap with hot water, then nothing simply flows from there, or warm water flows by gravity, and over time, a trickle of warm water disappears altogether. It turns on properly, when turned on, the relay clicks under the control unit and heats the water to the set temperature. What's wrong? I would like to solve the issue on my own. | The DHW pipe system is clogged somewhere. Filters, taps, ice plugs (if in winter it stood even with drained water, ice can easily appear inside the pipes in some inconvenient places). To estimate possible locations, you need to see the system. Well water always comes with impurities, what kind of water treatment is installed? To check it is necessary to disconnect the boiler from the network, drain the boiling water through the combined valve and check the system with cold water. To begin with, by disconnecting the DHW outlet, carefully supplying cold water, check its passage through the boiler, and then gradually through the system to the nearest hot water tap, look for a blockage / closed and forgotten tap, in general, any obstacles to the passage of water. |
| The Ariston TI-Tronic 80 V water heater was put into operation in June 2007. used in the country, not particularly intensively, the water is hard. There was a problem, if earlier he heated the water to a very hot state quickly enough, then the last time, he could not warm up the water for more than 3 hours, although it became warm. What could have happened and how to deal with it. | Clean the heating element and check the magnesium anode. Unscrew the nut securing the bracket, pull out the flange with the heating element. |
| there was a problem with the piping of the TI 200 TS / C indirect heating boiler. The fact is that the boiler does not have a sleeve for connecting an external thermostat, there are only two holes on the side of the inlet and outlet of the coolant to the heat exchanger and that's it. Below this model has a heating element, provided as a backup heating. Someone may have experience with this product | These water heaters have a sleeve for thermometer, thermostat and safety thermostat cylinders. Most likely, the sleeve is located near the heating element. |
| Geyser Ariston Fast CF 14E, the same in design, heat exchanger and reducer, but with electronic ignition.It is completely new at all, the presence of wear of the membrane or soot is excluded. It was disconnected for a short time and did not work. In general, I can add the following: I came to the conclusion that she had incorrectly set (initially) gas regulation. Depending on the water flow and pressure, the gas pressure must change the reducer and thereby keep the water temperature constant, right? So in my case, with a small flow of water, it either does not ignite, or it gives almost cold water, and with a high flow, it overheats strongly. In this case, the position of the regulator is the same, I do not change it, but the water temperature is different all the time. For example, with a flow of 7 l / min, you can somehow make the temperature of the order of 40-43 degrees, at a lower temperature, the temperature barely reaches 35 grams, and the handles are at the maximum. At the same time, increasing the flow slightly, let's say up to 8-9 l / min. the water begins to overheat strongly, the column makes noise. Of course, the numbers are approximate, but they explain the essence. Who knows if there are any adjustments there? | Use the water flow handle to give as much water as you need. But do not get carried away in the direction of more water, so as not to burn too much, this will affect the service life of the column (heat exchanger) and the excess gas consumption! And with the gas knob, heat to the desired temperature (39-42, as anyone). After that, when you open the tap completely (even two, just the amount of water is divided, and the temperature does not change (theoretically)), your electric water heater will give out the required temperature. |
| For two years we were happy with the purchase, but now the problem is starting to be shocked. Turn it off and only then use it. There are no external signs. If there is a solution, tell me. | Option A: Connect the ground. Option B: struck the heating element, replace it. It is best to do both. In general, grounding is always necessary, and it is also good to put an RCD, such a small toggle switch is not expensive, as soon as Teng Ouzo flies, it immediately de-energizes and you will not be electrocuted. |
| How to disassemble, pull out and clean the ten in ariston sg 10 ur (floor). Something began to warm up badly. | Remove the plastic cover on the front side, there is a screw under the plug. You will see ten. You unscrew the nut, push the heating element inside the tank and carefully clean it so as not to damage it. And replace the anode. Rinse out the tank inside. Putting it all back. Tighten the mount carefully, if you overtighten, the pin on the heating element flange breaks out. |
| dripping from the safety valve. What to do? | change the fuse or check the quality of all connections (winding), the thread may have burst from excessive winding or from tightening force. |
| We bought and hung up an electric water heater Ariston. The water heats up for a very long time and is barely warm. No pressure. | change the wrong bypass valve under the pressure of your water in the system. |
| Maybe someone will tell you? For three years, an electric water heater Ariston shuttle of 50 liters has been operating in the house, a year ago the heating element and anode were changed, now they began to knock out ouzo on the power cord. I turn it on - it works, heats the water, and after a while I come up - the ouzo is turned off again. What to do? What exactly needs to be repaired or changed in this case? I note right away that there is grounding, the reasons are unlikely for an electrician. | In decreasing order of probability: heating element - replacement, condensation or water leakage into the electrical unit and on the wires / contacts, RCD malfunction. |
| I drew attention to the Ariston gas water heaters with an LCD display that have recently appeared on sale, where the water temperature is displayed. Curiously, they are arranged in the same way as ordinary ones, is it just such a peculiar indicator, or are they stuffed with electronics and work with feedback? Suppose the sensor measures the temperature of the leaving water and corrects the gas pressure? | Fully electronic feedback works only on turbocharged water heaters. This is due to the economy of power supply (they still operate from the mains, and not from batteries).When powered by batteries, discrete control is used by means of a rubber membrane and small unreliable valves, such a scheme has a number of disadvantages and low speed and reliability. In the second case, the power is supplied from the network (the turbine cannot be powered from a battery), a smarter controller with a PID regulator is installed, and most importantly, the gas supply is modulated continuously by means of a special servo valve, plus step regulation of the combustion area by means of separate valves is used, which expands the range and speed of the regulator ... In such a device, there is not a single rubber membrane at all. |
| The power limiter is the right knob that reduces water flow, right? I tried it in different positions, in the extreme right clockwise it still somehow ignites, if you turn it a little counterclockwise it already goes out. In this case, the throttle stick is at the maximum. | In the gas section there is a membrane with valves. The gas part can be freely removed and sealed in the housing with a rubber ring; its stem must move absolutely freely. At the end of it there is a regulating gas valve and its spring (when disassembling, be careful with it). All this can be disassembled and checked without any problems, having achieved an easy stroke of the stem. There is a spring at the end of the gas block, but its force is not very large, it can be pressed by hand without problems. This water-gas equipment really should work from 0.2-0.3 kg / cm2. |
| Disconnects on contact with ground at the outlet. If you bend the antennae, it works fine! The house is grounded! There is a diff in the dashboard. An automatic machine, then an RCD, which is on the cord of the Ariston gas column, so it kicks out when it comes into contact with the grounding element in the outlet. What could be the reason? To check the performance of the heating elements, there are 2 of them! 1.5 and 2 kW in turn disconnected the contacts and connected them to the network, and still knocked them out until they connected them to the outlet without grounding. It turns out that the ten is normal, it cuts down even when the contacts on them are disconnected! The cord where the ouzo changed last year, not because of a failure. | Change the heating elements. And never turn on the water heater without grounding. It is necessary to look - maybe water got into the thermostat, on the connections, in the cable. Here you can only look at the place where the leak is. All electrical equipment under the boiler cover must be dry and free from significant corrosion. If there is a possibility - disconnect the wires to the heating elements - if the RCD stops working - you will definitely have to change the heating elements. It's just that the most likely thing is damage to the heating element. |
| Tell me how to clean the Ariston gas water heater? | Disconnect the pipes, drain the water. You are filming EVN. Unscrew the fasteners of the heating elements, take them out and clean them. You collect water in the EVN, as much as you can raise or put the EVN on the edge of the bath and rinse it from the hose. Rinse several times. Reassemble in reverse order. |
| Tell me, the water pressure at the entrance to the ariston is 50 liters, normal water heats, but the outlet is very small pressure almost does not go water can, which valve is it? | Do you have a non-return (safety) valve on which branch pipe is it installed? Cold or hot water? Should be in cold water. Otherwise, hot water is shut off, and cold water can go back altogether. |
| Please tell me the reason and how to fix it. Our electric water heater Ariston makes loud bangs when heated. What's the matter? | if once or twice during heating, then this is due to the thermal expansion of the tank walls. |
| Can you please tell me that you installed an Ariston ABS PRO ECO 65V Slim gas water heater and noticed that a lot of electricity is consumed. For example, we heat the tank to 70 degrees, take 1.5 sq. light, went for a swim, the temperature dropped to 60 degrees and the tank heats up again to 70 degrees and again 1.5 square meters of light is taken. Did I understand correctly? Shouldn't I have turned it on like that, it took 1.5 sq. light a day and that's it? So it was when we had Termex, turned on the water heater, it took 2 square meters of light per day and that's it. How, then, can you save on electricity? | EVN consumes 1.5 kW per hour.If you want to save energy, use less hot water. |
| Advise on what mode to use the water heater economically? | In continuous mode at any temperature. There will be little hot water, add temperature. |
| Why does it drip through the safety valve every time the water heater heats up? | Because water expands when heated, a lot of pressure is created and water begins to flow through the safety valve. To prevent dripping, open and close the hot water tap. |
| disassembled the Ariston electric water heater and this is what was found. First, I removed the gas block with two valves, everything is fine, the springs are not at all tight there, they move easily by hand. But next to it, under the cover with two screws, there is a powerful tight spring, I opened it and removed the spring, the rod was exposed, it moves freely. The most interesting thing is that the rubber band of the valve of an irregular round shape in the photo is hardly noticeable. Did he take it or should it be so? There can be no reason here, unless the spring is too powerful. Collected. Then I took off the frog to check it. Clean water filter. It is not clear, what is the screw next to the regulator knob? What does it regulate? Disassembled, took out the membrane. No defects, intact. Why two blue holes are understandable, but I still haven't figured out why three more are needed under the membrane. | The holes under the diaphragm are the regulator of the flow and force on the stem. The regulator can be easily disassembled, the handle and insides are still accessible for inspection. Check them and the venturi for foreign objects, sometimes molding flakes and other things are there even on new gas water heaters. The springs, judging by their appearance, are normal, nothing is stretched. The valve is pressed against the seat a little off-center - it's okay, judging by the photo, there is a locking belt around the entire circumference, therefore, the valve is operational. You unscrew the three screws on the handle flange, take it out together with the flange and spool. There are 2 more rubber rings. You check their presence and integrity (especially the lower one, as it seals the interchamber space). The spool and inner well must be clean and free of scratches. The spring and its adjuster are removed from the side opposite to the stem. From the same place is taken out and "little blue" thing - a jet. There are o-rings in there too, check them. The spool at the end of the spring rotates externally and adjusts the flow restriction. There are no more adjustments in this block. |
| Most recently, an electric water heater Ariston was installed at my house. A month later, he began to make a terrible noise. The instructions say that light noise is permissible, but this noise is growing more and more every day! Even at night I wake up from him. Tell me if you need to call the master (in general, is it a breakdown), or is it normal? | It makes a noise, usually due to the teng overgrown with scale. A little later a thumping may start - scale will fly off from the heating element. |
| The scheme of work is almost perfect in my opinion. The water temperature will always be constant and over a wide flow range. But with this turbine. I understand that with different gas flow rates, different amounts of air are required for combustion. And this craving cannot fully provide. But are there such electric water heaters without a turbine? Or that device (controller) also consumes a lot of electricity and will not work from the battery and the first option will come out? | The turbine provides a very large amount of combustion air. Its motor power is about 50 watts. The speed is regulated depending on the burner power and combustion mode. The turbine also provides cooling of the combustion chamber and heat exchanger when it is turned off, continuing to work for about 20 seconds. This prevents the formation of boiling water and reduces the load on the heat exchanger. Plus, such a device has up to 5 solenoid valves and a modulation valve that consumes up to 5 watts. In heaters of high power (above 30 kW) there is also a motorized three-way bypass, an anti-defrost system, etc.That is, this is somewhat more than what we are used to understanding under the term gas water heater. The efficiency of such heaters reaches 98%. Personal impressions - when working at medium power, the discharge pipe has a temperature of about 40 C and you can freely hold it with your hand. There is a simplified version - semi-turbine water heaters are an ordinary atmospheric burner, but equipped with a smoke exhauster - a fan that sucks in combustion products and forcibly directs them into the chimney. They are also powered from the mains, but their power control circuits are common, like in atmospheric speakers. If the power supply is unstable or frequent shutdowns are possible, you can use a computer UPS, with the right choice, it will be enough for more than one hour of its operation. |
| Does the turbine on the gas column play the role of a flow sensor? | The flow sensor there is an ordinary spinner, like in a water meter, but with an electronic sensor. The signal from it shows not only the presence of the duct, but also its size. Further, the controller, based on the temperature difference between the input water and the set output water, taking into account this flow, sets the burner power smoothly (or in steps + smoothly inside a step). The turbine (centrifugal fan, volute) pumps air into the combustion chamber under pressure and provides the right amount of air and good mixing with the gas for perfect combustion, by adjusting the speed depending on the current burner power. |
| my ariston worked for 7 years then the thermostat burned out changed everything is fine, but hot water does not come out. | Check the operation of the impeller. For 7 years, most likely it has jammed. |
| I have an ARISTON ABS VLS PW 50 water heater, it stands in the country, water comes through a pumping station, the pumping station pumps water from a well. He constantly gives an error (the tank is not filled with water) something like that. I noticed that water enters it when the pumping station starts pumping water. When the station is filled with water, at this time the electric heater does not collect water! What could be? | There is a pressure sensor at the pumping station, with which you can adjust the pressure in the system. And you need to check the air pressure in the pumping station (in the accumulator), in a bottle with a rubber bulb, there is a pipette, like on a bicycle chamber. Perhaps there is some kind of valve in the column that works at a certain pressure, and the pressure in the system is not enough. |
| For some reason, my water heater beeps, do you know why? | High water pressure, so the valve beeps. |
| We have a 30-liter Ariston P30 / 5 in operation since July 2000! He moved with us to a new apartment in 2004 and is still doing well. They did not clean it prophylactically, the water in St. Petersburg is soft, and they did it, probably, then conscientiously: it keeps the heat well, economical. Used as a help when the water is turned off in the summer and when there are frequent interruptions in hot water supply. And one more thing: for the last month, we observe how from the hole intended for draining excess water and located on the horizontal deaf branch of the water intake pipe of the water heater, it drips slightly. This happens some time after you turn on the heating, I use the "economical" mode and wait for the water to warm up. As soon as you let the hot water flow a little bit from the water heater, the “drops” stop and do not resume any longer. Maybe someone will tell you why this happens? | "Drops" is the expansion of the heating water. there is an instruction in the instructions: put a rubber tube on the appendix and bring it to the drain. |
| We have a 50-liter Ariston vertical electric water heater, but after 1.5 years of use, one day it began to flow at the bottom in the area of the temperature regulator. I read that many have such a problem. Can someone still tell you what the problem is (from those who nevertheless contacted the service center with such a problem), is there any point in repairing or is it already faulty? | Have you carried out prophylaxis during these one and a half years of use? did you clean the heating element? changed the anode? Ariston's water heaters, although reliable, still need timely maintenance.And it is recommended to clean and / or replace the anode every 1.5 - 2 years. And if the water is not of the best quality, then more often it is possible. Most likely, a leak in the area of the thermostat is a consequence of the fact that the heating element needs to be cleaned. And it is better to do this not in private conditions, but in a service center, this procedure is not complicated and not expensive. |
| Installed a water heater Ariston ABS PRO ECO 100 V. Only when heating does not drip water from the safety valve. This is normal? | Water can flow from the outlet of the back-safety valve designed to relieve excess pressure: With constant excess pressure in the cold water supply system (more than 6-8 Bar, the EVN model depends, cold water flows). Or when the water pressure in the system is close to the maximum allowable during the heating process (hot water flows from the tank). |
| Not so long ago I installed an Ariston electric water heater for 65 liters, until today it worked fine, but now the entire scale is blinking and inaudible to heat the water, tried to restart it several times, no result, it turns on a little noise, then flashes again with the whole scale and stops heating. Tell me what to do? | I will say a banality, but a water heater is not a monolith, but rather complex equipment, you need to monitor it. We do four simple things: we regularly check the safety valve, change the anode in a timely manner, drain the water for a period without operation, and properly descale. |
| Installed geyser Ariston in the apartment. The first couple of years everything seemed to be normal, and then either the external conditions changed (water / gas pressure), or the column worn out. In general, in winter, when the temperature of the water in the pipes drops significantly, the column heats the water to an insufficiently high temperature. Measurements with a thermometer, a clock and a bucket show that the power is reduced by 25-30 percent. During periods of large analysis of water, the storage water heater works weakly (the power was measured for such a period). And at night, when the water pressure is higher, especially if you open the tap harder, the column starts to heat up quite normally. In general, there is an opinion that you can probably tweak something in this column so that it starts working normally - after all, there is potential. Only from the operating instructions it is not at all clear what exactly can be tweaked. Or there is nothing to twist, but you just need to change the water heater? | The reasons for the drop in power (if it really fell, and not just require more from the device than it can) are not many - low gas pressure, contamination of the burner nozzles or its diffusers, contamination of the heat exchanger with scale inside or soot and oxides outside. With an increase in water pressure, the flow and power increase, since in this column there is a mechanical open-loop power control system from the flow. Its parameters could easily go away, since they depend on the cross-section of the channels in the water block, the purity of the venturi nozzle, and the serviceability of the membrane. If, with the passport flow and gas pressure, the power does not correspond to the declared one, you must first of all check the condition of the parts of the water block, clean them from deposits and replace the membrane, since a hole even a couple of tenths of a mm when exposed to operating pressures can lead to a decrease in the performance of such a system. |
| There is no central heating supply, parents bought a boiler 11 years ago, 150 liters, very large, no complaints, we change the heating element ourselves every 2 years, because is covered with limescale and starts to heat badly. Heats up to boiling water, the temperature in the tank is regulated. | Put a magnetic filter on the water and you will change the heating elements every 5 years. |
| I cleaned the ariston platinum SL-100 water heater, oval flange. The gasket has raised doubts. I bought a new one, not original. Collected, began to fill with water-dripping at the place of contact of the heating element. He began to tighten the bolt that the ten itself holds (it was not tightened all the way) dripped even more. Pinched it all the way, it still drips. I had to disassemble again.I put the old gasket, missed the ring groove of the heating element with a sealant - the leak stopped. What could be the problem? Maybe the quality of the rubber? And one more question. There was another problem. When the tank was full, it began to drip heavily between the neck and the flange, from under the gasket. I tightened the bolt on the clamping bar, it stopped dripping, but water was still oozing out. I drained the water, took out the flange, the gasket is clean, the fit to the neck is also smooth. I collected it again, took some water, pulled it up - it's normal. I thought there shouldn't be a problem with flanges like this. Centered like normal. Maybe there are some nuances here? Maybe when I removed and put the gasket on the flange, I did not wear it perfectly? | In any case, remove the EVN and check the connection point. Yes, it seems there are no subtleties. Check if there is anything interfering with the installation of the gasket on the inside of the tank? Can smear something on the gasket and the inside of the tank where the flange is installed. Well, for example, a lubricant for flax. If a leak occurs, pull the nut until it stops flowing. Naturally within reason. |
| I operate the Ariston ABS VLS PW100 electric water heater. Everything was fine, there were no complaints about him. But recently his little screen has gone out, where the temperature and modes are displayed. Then it worked for a short time, but soon it went out again. And now it doesn't burn. When analyzing the panel with the screen, an interesting thing came to light: when a bright light is directed onto the screen, the numbers can be seen, but they themselves do not glow. Who knows how the screen can be repaired? It's a shame to throw out such a water heater because of a non-burning screen. With all this, all the functions of the water heater are working properly. | Most likely, the internal backlight does not work on the display. If everything else works, it is controlled from the display, then try to find an electronics engineer who will try to figure it out. Or try to find a new board. And for the future, try not to take models with electronics, the simpler the more reliable. |
| Electric water heater ABS PRO ECO 65 V Slim. Ariston. The instruction is lost. We want to change the ten with our own hands. Does not heat up. How to change with your own hands? | Unscrew everything from below (after de-energizing). Take out the ten. Install a new one, open the water and wash the dirt out of the tank. Dry and put in the reverse order. |
Ariston boilers - Questions for experts
Question: ARISTON EGIS boiler. Please tell me to deal with this problem? When heated in heating mode to 70 degrees or more, the boiler seems to gurgle inside. Why? What to do?
Answer: The heat exchanger is covered with scale. Try to wash it off with acid.
Question: Tell me please, if anyone knows which relay on the board of the Ariston EGIS 24FF boiler belongs to the fan? I want to change it, otherwise the fan is spinning all the time and does not allow the pneumorel to work. And how to avoid such breakdowns in the future? Someone advises a stabilizer (which one?), Someone a surge protector (which one?), Someone an uninterruptible power supply (which one?). It costs nothing now.
Answer: Neither a surge protector nor a stabilizer will help against a breakdown of the relay - it all depends on the quality of the relay itself. The relay on the board is RL01 (you can see it along the tracks) - the name is F3AA024E (single-pin, 24V supply).
Question: On the ARISTON EGIS 24FF boiler, the water temperature after DHW is not regulated (the water is overheated). Switching the boiler to winter / summer mode, changing the water flow (more / less) through the DHW does not give any results. In heating mode, the boiler outlet water temperature is regulated normally.
Answer: Perhaps the minimum gas pressure has not been adjusted, the NTC-DHW temperature sensor has deteriorated, the temperature regulator does not work, etc.
Question: The ARISTON EGIS 24 boiler is a problem with the hot water turbine. I cleaned, flushed and everything without results. It starts only when the water pressure is not high, and even then not always.
Answer: If the impeller does not spin from a strong blow and cleaning does not give results, then you need to change it.
Question: Tell me, please, what could be the matter? Double-circuit boiler Ariston Egis 24FF: he opened the hot and cold water taps, took a shower, closed the taps after 10 minutes, and after 15 minutes noticed that the fan in the boiler was still working. Only a green light is on, indicating that the boiler is on. I pressed the button of the two-pole switch, the indicator went out, but the fan continues to work and turns off only when the boiler is disconnected from the network.
A minute later, I connected the boiler to the network - the fan immediately started working. I pressed the button of the two-pole switch - the green indicator came on. Turned the heating regulator - the boiler hummed (the pump probably turned on), but the burner did not light up, but the orange indicator of the chimney malfunction began to blink. The fan runs all the time. Set the heating regulator to zero - the orange indicator stops flashing.
I opened the hot water tap - the 40 degree indicator blinked twice (as always, it blinks when hot water is opened) and the orange smoke exhaust malfunction indicator blinked again. The gas never caught fire. The fan runs all the time. The pressure in the heating system is normal - a little less than 1.
Answer: You need to check the turbine relay.
Question: Hot water does not work when the heating is off. When the heating is turned on, hot water comes on, if you turn off the heating, hot water disappears. What could be?
Answer: The DHW flow sensor does not work - the turbine is dirty.
Question: Boiler ARISTON EGIS 24FF. Something clicked in the boiler, and all the LEDs went out. Replaced the fuse. The boiler has come to life, but also in heating mode and in hot water mode, the red indicator "burner ignition failure" comes on. After the reset, the same thing. The burner tries - the clicks of the discharges are heard for several seconds, then the relay clicks and the "burner ignition failure" LED lights up. What can be done?
Answer: Check the coils of the gas valve and the voltage coming to it when igniting the spark.
EV1 resistance (between pins 3 and 4) = 878 Ohm
EV2 resistance (between pins 1 and 3) = 6860 Ohm
Question: Water began to actively drip from the air vent and the pressure in the system began to drop. What could it be?
Answer: It is necessary to change the air vent and the pressure will stop dropping. As a temporary measure, the air vent can be closed.
Question: Ariston 24 double-circuit boiler - it lights up normally and heats up the heating, but if you turn on hot water, the burner goes out. If the heating is turned off and you turn on hot water, the burner will not ignite. What can be done?
Answer: Check the NTC sensor, which is on the DHW.
Question: The problem is this - today I wanted to turn on the heating, the circuit lit up, began to boil, the pressure rose sharply and it turned off. Such an assumption is that the circulation pump has not started. What can be done? How to check?
Answer: Unscrew the pump plug and turn the pump shaft with a thin screwdriver. If it turns easily but does not start, check the pump condenser.
Question: Can you please tell me I have ariston egis 24, the heating is working, but there is no hot water. How to setup?
Answer: check the turbine of the DHW flow sensor.
Question: the red LED lit up today. When you press Reset, the red LED goes out, the boiler starts up, the burner lights up, the spark continues to click weakly, as if to the glowing floor and the boiler is blocked. What could be? Chimney boiler.
Answer: The boiler does not see the flame - check the electrode.
Question: ARISTON UNO boiler. Help to understand the malfunction. When the boiler is operating in DHW mode, the coolant simultaneously circulates along the heating circuit (through the batteries). As far as I understood from the instructions, this is not normal. This is not critical for the winter period, but for the summer. Maybe it will be enough to close the fittings for supplying the coolant from the boiler to the heating system, will this not lead to even worse consequences?
Answer: You can disassemble the 3-way valve and clean it, check the servo - whether it switches normally - if anything, change the drive and the inside of the 3-way valve. But you can also close the heating tap for the summer - there should be no consequences.
Question: Ariston Uno turbo boiler. The three-way valve drive is in DHW mode and does not switch to heating, I tried to put another one, I checked the DHW flow sensor. The result is 0. Tell me, what else could be?
Answer: If the boiler is switched to summer mode, but the DHW is not turned on, the drive will be in the DHW mode, but the gas will not ignite. If the temperature is set higher in winter mode, the drive should switch over and the gas will light up.
It is necessary to remove the actuator - check the switching (push with a match - check the movement of the stem) when turning on / off the hot water supply in winter mode, if it does not move, but the gas ignites, check if the voltage is supplied from the relay to the actuator. Check the stem of the 3-way valve itself to see if it moves 1cm deep.
Question: When the Ariston Uno boiler is operating in heating mode, only one battery in the apartment is heated, the boiler has reached the maximum temperature and turns on and off cyclically. There is no air in the system. What to do?
Answer: Check the filter on the return flow of the heating system, check the valves that cut off the system from the boiler, check the gaskets on the union nuts, if any, check the pipes - especially the flow - for a flow. Check the operation of the 3-way valve - does the DHW heat exchanger heat up in heating mode.
Question: The problem with the Ariston Uno boiler, in heating mode, only the batteries that are next to the boiler heat up. Feeling as if there is weak circulation, earlier the sound of the pump was louder. There is no air, the return filter is clean. Operating mode: 30s burner is on, 2min standby.
Previously, the operating mode seemed to be different, the burner burned longer and the standby mode was longer. You put on the maximum all the batteries are warming up normally. The last few days it turns off itself 1 time like this: all indicators are on and not blinking, made a reset - it started. 2 times: nothing is on, the boiler is on, it does not respond to reset.
Turned off the power for a few minutes - it started. 3 times: the green indicator blinks and that's it, the boiler simply does not start, does not respond to reset, also turned off the power. Maybe it's a coincidence, different breakdowns. What can be done?
Answer: The breakdowns seem to be different. How does DHW work? Fine? 1 and 2 times - board malfunction. 3 times - NTC sensors do not work well. When only the nearest radiators are warming up, you need to check the return and flow temperature on the boiler, as well as the temperature that is set.
Perhaps the minimum flame on the boiler is not set, perhaps there are sensors, or there may be scale in the heat exchanger, or maybe the 3-way valve does not switch, or there may be debris in the supply pipe.
Question: Please tell me the turbocharged ariston uno boiler constantly rises the pressure in 8 hours reaches 4 and if not reset, then an emergency drain occurs and 2 buckets of water are poured in. The pressure in the expansion tank was checked, it was 0.5, pumped up to 1.5, the air was released from the system, the cap on the tank was changed to a more reliable one.
Answer: The problem is all in the proportion of the amount of water in the heating system / the volume of the expansion tank. The pressure in the tank is checked when there is no water in the boiler and the pressure gauge = 0 bar.
The nitrogen or air pressure in the tank must be within 0.8 bar. If your heating system contains a large amount of water - more than 100 liters - you need an additional expansion tank.
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OPERATION AND REPAIR OF BOILERS
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Ariston Water Heater - Repair Recommendations
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- Operation and adjustment of the Ariston water heater
- Repair and replacement of parts of the electric water heater Ariston
- Installation and use of the Ariston electric boiler
- Maintenance and cleaning of the Ariston boiler
The Ariston abs vls evo pw 100 electric water heater was in operation. I was completely satisfied with its work, there were no complaints.But, the other day the following happened: the monitor, which displays the temperature and mode, went out. Then, literally for a few hours, it worked, and again went out. Doesn't work at the moment. While disassembling the panel with the monitor, I discovered an interesting detail: if you direct the light to the monitor, then the numbers can be seen, but they themselves do not light up. Who had a similar situation, how did you troubleshoot this display issue? It is a pity to throw out such a device just because the monitor does not work. Still, everything else is functioning properly. It is suspected that your monitor has a broken backlight. If there are no complaints about the rest of the functions, control from the monitor, then find a wizard who will figure it out. Or buy a new board. And in the future, do not take electronic models, the simpler the device - the more reliable it is. Need some advice. After installing the storage boiler Ariston abs pro eco slim 80 V, I discovered that it consumes a lot of electricity. For example, when the tank is heated to 70 degrees, the consumption of 1.5 kilowatts, after taking a shower, the temperature dropped to 60 degrees, and the tank heats up again to 70 and again 1.5 kilowatts are consumed. How do you save on electricity? The device consumes 1.5 kilowatts per hour. If you want to save electricity, use less hot water. I faced the problem of piping the Ti Tronic 200 indirect heating boiler. The problem is that the device does not have a sleeve for connecting an external thermostat, there are only 2 openings on the side, the inlet and outlet of the coolant to the heat exchanger and that's it. At the bottom there is a heating element, which is designed for backup heating. Maybe someone has experience with such devices. These models have a sleeve for thermometer, thermostat and safety thermostat cylinders. I assume that the sleeve is near the heating element. Installed an electric boiler Ariston abs pro r 50 v. Only when heated, no liquid leaks from the safety valve. Is that how it should be? The liquid can flow from the outlet of the safety check valve, which is designed to bleed off excess pressure: with a stable excess pressure in the cold water supply system above 8 mbar, cold water flows. Or when the water pressure in the system reaches the maximum allowable mark during heating (hot water runs from the tank). How to properly disassemble, remove and clean the heating element in the Ariston Velis 80 boiler? It began to heat up worse. First, remove the plastic front cover, there is a screw under the plug. You will see the heating element. Unscrew the nut, push the heating element into the tank and carefully clean it without using sharp objects. Replace magnesium anode. Then, wash the inside of the tank. Collect everything in reverse order. All fasteners must be tightened carefully, if you overtighten, the stud on the heating element flange may break out. The Ariston abs vls pw 50 d electric water heater, which was acquired relatively recently, is in operation. Four heating elements have already burned out in one year. There are two types - Thermowatt and native without manufacturer's mark on the heating element. In more detail: we use the device all the time and all year round, a family of two. Approximately 3 thousand / l passes through the device per month. water. At night, I set the heating temperature to maximum, during the day I lower it - this allows you to save money due to the night (reduced tariff). There is a magnetic transducer Magnetic Water Systems. The Thermowatt's own heating element burned out after 6 months of use - the residual current device began to work. The very first one burned out a small heating element for 1 kilowatt. When it was turned off, leaving only a large heating element for 1.5 kilowatts, it continued to function. Replaced under warranty. Scale has formed on the heating element, but it has not dried, it is easily washed off.The second Thermowatt heating element worked normally for only 7 days and also burned out, namely the main one. I had to call a specialist again - they replaced it. The third heating element has been operating for six months, the boiler warranty has expired, and the main heating element has burned out again. Disconnected it, the second worked for several days and also burned out. I put the original heating element, it also burned out after two weeks of work. There are two heating elements with one part burnt out, I installed one of them # 2, which burned out in 7 days. My joy was not long - the second part burned out after a couple of hours. Now I put the last one, which I have with only one part burnt out, it is No. 1. What should I do? Buy more heating elements? Replace the boiler? Maybe somewhere you can weld a heating element on such a flange to order? You need to contact the masters. Installed storage water heater Ariston abs pro r 80 v. The manual says that you must not connect and disconnect the device by plugging or unplugging the cord from the outlet. Use a switch for this purpose. The question is, does a mechanized thermostat in the limit position perform this option? Until the characteristic click? In addition, they say, in order to disconnect the external power supply to the device, use a two-pole switch. Is there a switch on the mechanical temperature controller? It is also said that the boiler must be grounded. And if the house already has grounding? Connecting and disconnecting devices by pulling the cord out of the socket is written in almost every instruction. It must be installed in front of the water heater, following the electrical requirements. Unscrewing the thermostat to a minimum, you can hear the clicking of the opening contacts, and the boiler is turned off from the mains. Such use is also allowed. The thermostat has 1 break contact. You will open phase or 0 based on how you inserted the mains plug. That is why a two-pole switch is recommended to completely de-energize the device. If the apartment already has grounding and it is in the sockets, then there is no need to extend the grounding additionally. The most important thing is to bring it to the water correctly, following the instructions. In everyday life, we use a storage electric water heater Ariston abs vls evo inox qh 80 with an electronic thermostat. We have been using it for six months. The indication shows that heating is on, but the water is cold. Diagnostics does not turn on, there is no reaction to pressing other keys. Perhaps someone faced a similar problem? Following the indication - heating is on, but in reality the water is practically cold. From the very beginning, the heating temperature was set to 60 degrees. The indicators flash, as it should be when heating up to 60. I tried to increase and decrease the temperature - nothing came of it. The control board does not respond to the +/- keys, and other keys. Only the start key functions. First of all, it is recommended to check the performance of the heating element. If the indication is normal, the temperature is displayed, then I think it is working. In any case, a complete breakdown of the board did not occur if the processor reacts to the start key and blinks with diodes. Maybe it shows a breakdown. First check the thermal sensor, heating sensor (if any) and the output signal to the device. What could happen to the Ariston Velis 50 EVN after winter storage in a farm building? I put it, as always in a country house, brought the water down, it started flowing from the hot valve, plugged it into the socket, immediately without turning on the key, the first diode lit up and began to flicker on the temperature display of 40 degrees, pressed the + key, both diodes began to blink. Carried out diagnostics, pressed and held the on / off key, released it, the diodes continue to glow. He left it for a while, the heating does not go, based on the instructions there is a problem in the electronics.I dismantled the control device, the heating element rang - it is in order. The question is, is it possible to somehow check the electronic unit without connecting the heating element? I checked everything, no charring. There is an indication on the socket. The warranty has expired. Based on personal experience, I can say with confidence that the breakdown of electronic components is not always accompanied by charring and smoke. If there is no experience in checking electronics, then replace the board. If a tester is available, check first the voltage circuit, then the control circuit and the temperature sensor. The Ariston abs 80v water heater is in operation. Lost the instruction. It seems that the heating element is malfunctioning (does not heat). I wanted to replace it myself. Tell me how to properly replace? First of all, you need to de-energize the device. Unscrew the lower part and remove the heating element. Install another in its place, rinse the tank with water pressure. Leave it on for a while until it dries completely. Then put everything in reverse order. Interested in the question: do any of you have an Ariston 50v slim storage boiler in operation? How long does it last? There are practically no reviews, and those that are there are scary. Either they flow almost immediately after launch, or the electronic part burns out. Such EVNs are relatively new, so there are practically no reviews. Are leaking - it may be necessary to independently stretch the heating element mountings. And few people install an expansion tank, and this model has an accelerated heating option. Therefore, the pressure can instantly rise to the maximum mark. Breakdown of the Ariston abs blu eco pw 80 electric water heater. We have a stabilizer, and it copes well with voltage surges. Ariston is about two years old. There were no questions about work. And yesterday, when the water was heated, it turned off abruptly. The residual current device knocks out, so it is not possible to check the error on the monitor. It starts literally for a minute and goes out. In the morning I will try to find out if it can be repaired by myself. Who knows where to look for an error? In the boiler there is a breakdown to the ground - presumably, the heating element is faulty, this happens quite often, especially if hard water is used, and the EVN has never been cleaned of accumulated plaque and scale. It is necessary to start up without an RCD very carefully - dangerous voltage can arise on the shell. The electric water heater Ariston abs vls qh 50 is faulty. Has ceased to function and shows an error - overheating, breakdown of the electronic board. Advise whether the replacement of the electronic board will help to solve the problem, or perhaps some other breakdowns, whether it is possible to replace the board on your own without resorting to the help of specialists, or if additional actions are required. As far as I understand, there is more than one circuit in the sensor. There are four wires on the connector, one of them is red, all the others are gray. The resistance between two and four is the same and decreases when heated. Is the sensor working and where could rusty deposits come from? I suspect that condensate penetrates into the pipe into which the sensor is immersed, because it is installed on the inlet tank, and the boiler is located horizontally. Rusty streaks are visible on the pipe. There can be many reasons: both the accumulation of scale and dirt on the heating element, and malfunctions in the electronic part. When the resistance drops under heating conditions, this indicates the health of the sensor. There are 2-3 resistors installed in one housing, for the thermostat and for tracking overheating. It is likely that one wiring is common, the first two sensors are identical and working, and the overheating sensor may be broken, since you cannot ring it. May have burnt out due to moisture penetration. Everything is exactly - the cost of replacing this sensor is not comparable to replacing the electronics.We installed an Ariston abs pro r 100 v boiler, installed in a country house, water comes from a pumping station, and it pumps water from a well. The problem is as follows: the boiler always shows an error (lack of water in the tank) something like that. I noticed that water enters the device when the pumping station pumps water. When the station is filled with water, the device does not collect water. What do you advise? Each pumping station has a pressure sensor, it is with its help that you can adjust the pressure in the system. Check the air pressure in the station itself, in the cylinder with a rubber bulb, there is a tube, like in a bicycle tube. Maybe there is a valve in the column that is triggered when a certain pressure is reached, and the pressure in the system is low. Electric storage water heater Ariston abs vls inox pw 80. The problem is, it began to show an error - overheating of water, breakdown of the electronic board. What do you think, by replacing the board, I will solve the problem, or perhaps some other breakdowns, can I change the board myself without contacting those. support? There can be many reasons: both the accumulation of scale and dirt on the heating element, and malfunctions in the electronics. When cleaning the Ariston 100v oval flange boiler, the gasket seemed suspicious. I got another one, not original. Collected, filled - flows at the junction of the heating element. I tightened the bolt holding the heating element (it was not tightened to the limit) - it began to leak with even greater force. Tightened to the end, everything continues to drip smoothly. I had to disassemble again. I installed an old gasket, lubricated the circular tongue of the heating element with sealant - no leakage. What could it be? Could the bad quality of the rubber be the cause? And there is also another problem. When I completely fill the tank, it drips heavily between the flange and the neck, in the area of the gasket. I tightened the bolt on the pressure plate, the flow has stopped, but the liquid still oozes smoothly. I drained the water, took out the flange, the gasket is clean, everything is in order at the point of contact with the neck. I assembled it in the reverse order, filled the tank with water, tightened it - everything is normal. I was sure that there would be no problem with such flanges. Did the alignment - everything seems to be fine. Perhaps there are some other subtleties? Maybe, when I took out and put the flange, I didn't completely put it on? You still need to remove the water heater and check all the connections. As far as I know, there are no nuances. I would advise you to check on the inside of the tank, perhaps there is something preventing the installation of the gasket? You can lubricate the gasket and the inside of the reservoir where the flange is located. A flax lubricant is perfect for this. If there is a leak, you can tighten the nut until the leak stops. Of course, within reasonable limits.
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